Sunday, 5 June 2016

Gender Expression Timeline

note: the dates before people's names refers to their birth year




Ancient Accounts of Gender Nonconformity and Homosexuality




Ancient Egypt:
In 1478 BC, 'King' Hatshepsut ascended the throne.  She was the chief wife of Thutmose II, who was her half brother and also the Pharaoh at the time. She ruled in the place of Thumose III, who was her stepson, as he was only young when his father - the Pharaoh - died. 

She was a very ambitious woman and it wasn't enough for her to be Queen Regent, so she sent Thutmose III away and named herself Pharaoh, telling people that the God Amun was her Father.

Hatshepsut is mostly depicted as a male in statues and such; wearing a beard, dressed in standard male Pharaoh clothing and with a more masculine body. 

Unfortunately, after she died a lot of the records of her were hidden as the idea of a woman 'King' was still pretty taboo in Egypt. This helped preserve most of the statues from wearing down throughout the centuries. 

Ancient Greece/Rome:
Around 3 BC, there was a cult of religious followers who worshipped the 'Mother Goddess' who was the daughter of the Sky God and Earth Mother, known by the Romans as Cybele and the Greeks as Cybele. She was first depicted as a hermaphrodite, though it's thought that the Greeks made up a story of her being the offspring of Zeus and the other gods fearing her because of her hermaphrodite. In the Greek version of things, the Gods castrated her. This tale is what is thought to have influenced the priests of Cybele, the Galli. They were said to have removed all male parts of themselves, cross dressed and even became prostitutes for men.

In 117 AD, Hadrian, known for building Hadrian's Wall, became Emperor. It was not uncommon for men to practise homosexuality in Ancient Rome but Hadrian is noted as being especially open with his sexuality and mourned his consort, Antinous, more than what would have been expected.

Modern History, Gender Boundaries and Significant Events

1755- Charlotte Clarke
First publicly transgender and lesbian woman the UK.

1832- Mary Edwards Walker
Walker and her brother were both brought up by their parents that had a disregard for gender roles that at the time was very progressive. Her mother often helped out on the farm while her father shared the house work; habits which were passed on to the children. Mary and her mother were known to work wearing things that were traditionally not worn by women, with the idea they were too constricting for work.

Her parents raised her to be as educated as her brother, which was still an unconventional thing in the 1800s. She ended up being the only woman in her class to graduate from Syracuse Medical College. She got married at 23, but kept her last name- a further protest to gender nonconformity. Together they opened a surgery but women were still frowned upon in the medical profession.

She was an advocate for women wearing trousers and was of the opinion that skirts and dresses not only impaired mobility, but were also unhygienic and spread all sorts of dust and bacteria. 

In the American Civil War, Walker became the first woman to be employed as a surgeon by the American Army.

1838- Herculine Barbin/ Abel Barbin
Barbin was a French intersex person who, after living as a female for 22 years, was later found to have male pseudohermaphroditism. In his memoirs (in which he refers to himself using female pronouns before redesignation and male pronouns after), he mentions a few lesbian relationships.

1877- Isabelle Eberhardt
Born in 1877 to a  Russian noblewoman and and an Armenian anarchist and former priest, Eberhardt already had an interesting start to life. She was brought up educated by her parents, resulting in her being fluent in many different languages. Accompanied by her mother, she started travelling around North Africa and ended up doing quite a bit of writing under the male pseudonym Pierre Loti.

After her mother and father died, she did more travelling alone and fell in with the Qadiriyya, who were a Muslim Brotherhood. At this point, she was travelling around under the name Si Mahmoud Essadi, disguised as a man. On her quest to plough through gender barriers of the time, she even cut her hair short, though did still end up getting married to an Algerian Soldier in 1901.

1882- Lili Elbe
She was born in Vejle, Denmark, with the name Einar Wegener. She studied art at the Royal Danish Academy of fine arts, where he met his future wife, Gerda Gottlieb. The two married in 1904.

Wegener often dressed in female clothes to model for Gerda, who was a fashion illustrator. It is thought that it was this that kick started her thoughts of being a woman and transitioning.

The two moved to Paris, which was a lot more modern and open, and she lived as a woman, taking the name Lili Elbe.

From 1930-1931, she went though 4 gender reassignment surgeries and legally changed her name to Lili Elbe. However, because she was now legally a female, her marriage to Gerda was void as same sex marriage was not legal in Denmark until 2012. She was proposed to by a childhood friend after this, and planned to have a final operation- a uterus transplant and artificial vagina construction, which she hoped would allow her to become pregnant. Some accounts offer the idea that Elbe was intersex and already had ovaries that were not quite formed.

Elbe died shortly after her 4th and final operation at the age of 48.

1893- Violette Morris
Morris was brought up in a convent. She was known to be bisexual (some cases claim she was out as a lesbian) and married a male in 1914; a marriage that lasted 9 years. She was one of the first great female athletes, competing in shotput, discus, boxing, football and motor racing to name but a few, and often competed against men. She was known for the saying 'ce qu'un homme fait, Violette peut le faire' which means 'anything a man can do, Violette can do'.

In addition to her athleticism, which was characteristically unfeminine for the time, she was also a heavy smoker- something else that was considered masculine. It has also been claimed that she had a double mastectomy to be able to fit into race cars better. Because of all of this, and the fact she was an out lesbian (/bisexual), the French media were always against her and was kicked from a number of sports teams.

In the Depression of the 30s, Morris ended up getting into the black market and turned into a bit of a thug. She was spotted and initiated into the French Gestapo, being invited by Hitler personally to the Berlin Olympics. She later gained the nickname 'the Gestapo's Hyena' because of her reputation for being a brutal torturer.

1914- Billy Tipton
Tipton, born Dorothy Lucille Tipton, tried for a number of years to get into the jazz industry that was very much male dominated. He started binding his chest and trying to pass as male; which worked and he gained more and more fame. He lived most of his life as a male and many were shocked when he was revealed to be a woman on his deathbed; her band members and even her previous wives had no idea! It is unclear whether Tipton was transgender or a lesbian, or just lived his life as a man to get ahead in the industry.

1915- Michael Dillon
Born Laura Maud Dillon, he was rejected by his father shortly after his birth when his mother died. He was brought up by her aunties with her brother, and attended St Anne's College in Oxford. Through puberty, he grew facial hair and developed a deep voice. After working in a garage for some years, he was prescribed testosterone hormone pills and had a double mastectomy at the age of 27. Two years later, he legally changed his birth certificate to male. His brother also rejected him at this point.

Dillon was the first known case of a FtM sex change (surgically), and is also thought to be the first woman to be given hormone pills to transition. After transitioning, he studied at medical school and ended up travelling as a ship's doctor.

He lived out the last of his life in a Buddhist monastery in Bengal.

1918- Roberta Cowell
Her birth name was Robert Marshall Cowell, and was one of three children. Growing up, her hobbies included motor sport, photography and film making. After leaving school, she went on to work as a Pilot with the RAF, but was discharged because of airsickness.

In 1936 she started studying engineering at UCL, eventually starting motor racing too.

She served as both Second Lieutenant and Pilot Officer in WW2, and got married to a woman in 1941. This marriage lasted just 8 years.

By the age of 32, she was taking oestrogen but still identifying as male. After meeting Michael Dillon, had an inguinal orchiectomy (the removal of the testicles). She was legally declared as intersex after this, and had her birth certificate changed to female. In 1951 she had a second operation; a vaginoplasty. This was performed by Harold Gilles, who was the surgeon who carried out Michael Dillon's surgeries. Cowell was the first male to have this kind of procedure in the UK.

1955- Ken Russell's Teddy Girls
'Teddy Girls' were a subculture of British teens in the 50s that took to dressing like 'teddy boys'. This included smart-looking Edwardian suits paired with American Rock 'n' Roll 'greaser' hair'. Teddy boys quickly gained a bad rep with the media, the kind of working class kids that would hang around and cause trouble.
In a way, this style was the punk of their time. They dressed this way to break out of social norms, and the teddy girls especially break out of gender boundaries for the time.

1960- Grayson Perry
Perry is a well known potter, documentary presenter and transvestite. He grew up with his mother, her boyfriend and three siblings. He discovered his love for transvestism when he was just a teenager, developing an alter-ego who goes by the name of Claire. Growing up, he was very confused about the conflict in masculinity and femininity in him- he has said he knew he wasn't gay, nor transgender, so growing up with this kind of thing not talked about was a very confusing time. When his sister read his diary and told the rest of his family (who didn't react well), he suppressed the habits until he went to university.

Claire, at first, had a pretty boring style. Perry talks about the transition into more crazy outfits and says that passing for a woman in public wasn't very rewarding and that he envied transvestites who had the confidence to pull off more out-there stuff. This was how Claire ended up the Little Bo Peep style character we know today.

1967- Sexual Offences Act 
This decriminalised sexual relationships between men over the age of 21.

1969- Stonewall Riots 
Around this time, homosexuality in New York was illegal in public, so police started targeting private gay clubs. On 28th June, 1969, the police raided the Stonewall Inn- a gay club in Greenwich Village. Though the raid was completely valid (the club was selling alcohol without the necessary license), when LGBT civilians started being arrested, many others started protesting. This kick started days of riots all over the city and started the LGBT rights movement in America. This, in turn, influenced the start of groups like the Gay Liberation Front in England.

 1971- Nullity of Marriage Act
This law prevented same sex marriage which included transgender, transsexual and intersex individuals because in the year before, a law had been passed to prohibit the legal changing of gender on birth certificates.

1972- The first Gay Pride march happened in London.

1984- Laverne Cox
Born male in Alabama, Cox grew up with her mother and twin brother, and knew from a very young age that she was transgender. She studied at Alabama School or Fine Arts, Indiana University and Marymount Manhattan College. She had always loved the arts, dance in particular.

She was the first transgender person to be nominated for an Emmy for her role in Orange is the New Black, and is a very public trans rights activist.

1988- Section 28
This bill banned schools from 'promoting homosexuality' in their teachings, or even teaching that it was acceptable. This caused a lot of LGBT support to close due to fears of prosecution.

2003- Section 28 repeal

2004- Gender Recognition Act, Civil Partnership Act
The Civil Partnership Act gave same-sex couples an alternative to marriage with all the same rights.
The Gender Recognition Act allows transgender, transsexual and intersex people to change their gender to male or female legally, which gave them all the appropriate rights of that gender (e.g marriage).

2014- Same sex marriage becomes legal.

Dictionary



While compiling my research for this project, it dawned on me that I've taken it for granted that people will automatically be familiar with some terms, which may not be the case. I decided to come up with a small 'dictionary' type post that will hopefully clear up a few things.

Cisgender: Identifying as the sex/gender you were assigned at birth.

Cross-dresser: Wearing clothes that would stereotypically be associated to the opposite gender, though without having any desire to transition to that gender.
Note: Drag queens are not cross dressers (see Drag Queen)

Drag King: Females that dress as females for entertainment purposes.

Drag Queen: Males that dress as females for entertainment purposes.

Gender: More of the expressive side of sex- how someone feels and expresses themselves in terms of male/female/between.

Genderqueer: Identifying as not completely male or female.

Hermaphrodite: Born with both male and female sex organs.

Pseudohermaphroditism: Having secondary sex characteristics that are not associated with the primary characteristics.

Queer: An umbrella term used to identify many of the LGBT community.
Note: Has derogatory roots.

Intersex: Born with chromosomes, genitalia or reproductive systems that are not completely male or female.

Sex: Appointed at birth (male or female) based on physical anatomy, though is actually determined by anatomy, hormones, DNA amongst other things.

Sex Characteristics (Primary): Sex/reproductive organs.

Sex Characteristics (Secondary): Things like breasts, body/facial hair, build, voice pitch etc that are associated with one gender but not necessary for reproduction.

Transgender: Identifying as a gender different from that assigned at birth, can be shortened to trans.

Transgender Man: A trans person who currently identifies as male, known as FTM, female-to-male.

Transgender Woman: A trans person who currently identifies as female, known as MTF, male-to-female.

Transsexual: An individual desiring to change their physical sex.

Wednesday, 18 May 2016

Final Photos: Edits and Layouts

So after being ill for about a month and a half, I've finally finished all my shoots, chosen the final photos and edited them. The hardest part of this process for me has definitely been trying to sort through the photos and choose an acceptable number to use as my finals, then deciding on the layout. I wanted to end up with 4 photos from the 4 shoots as I felt like that was a nice even spread, with enough to show my work but not too much it gets repetitive. Here's what I came up with for my final layouts:


These are from my 80's inspired shoot. I found it so hard to whittle the 350-odd photos I took down to 4, just because I loved them all so much.  I think it was a combination of having a really great model, loving the makeup and the lighting working well. I managed to end up with these 4 and I am honestly so happy with them, even before editing I loved them so much. The only thing that did annoy me was that the larger one on the left is a slightly different colour to the others which is a bit of an inconvenience. I'm not even sure why this happened as they were all taken on the same setting, and they were all edited in the same way. The only thing I can think of is that the shutter speed was off and the flash was caught at a different time with that one. By having that one as the larger one and setting the other three out as a triple I got around this and I think the three really work well together anyway. As for the specific sizings, I'm going to have the big one as an A1 and the triples as A2, ordered as shown above with potentially more of a separation between the single and the triple.

One of the reasons I think these came out so well is that he doesn't look like a stereotypical over-the-top drag queen; the makeup doesn't look out of place on his face.  This really helps capture the slight overstep of the gender boundary in a way that isn't clownish to the extent that people can make fun of it, but still blurs masculinity/femininity to the point where it's noticeable in a 'normal' way.



With my 20s shoot, I had a bit of an easier time picking out my favourite photos because in a lot of them the lighting was off and I didn't take as many as the 80s shoot. I knew right from the start that I'd want these photos in black and white, just to give more of a 1920s vibe- colour photography wasn't widely used until the mid 20th century. Originally I did want to look into the types of cameras used in the decades I was looking at, but I've been ill on and off since the start of this project with bronchitis, so I haven't had time to look into everything on my proposal and the camera research was something I chose to sacrifice. These prints will be the smallest of the 4 shoots, the top 2 being A4 and the bottom being A3. I did have 4 pictures but two of them were just too similar so I decided having one a bit larger would have more of an impact than 4 similar ones of the same size.

It's a shame that the female model I originally planned for this shoot was unable to do it in the end, she was a lot more androgynous than this model so the gender-bending would've worked a lot better. I also wish I'd have had some more money to buy a dress for Jimmy to wear - again this would've added to what I was going for. Overall I'm pleased with the way they came out and I think they do convey the message, even if it's not as historically accurate as I would've liked.

My 60s shoot is a lot softer and just feels more lighthearted than the rest of the shoots. I am slightly annoyed that the different tones for the background, but because the portrait shots and landscape shots both have similar tones respectively, I don't think it matters a huge amount.  I didn't do much in the way of editing, just changed the levels to give them a bit of life and changed the tone slightly. I've decided to display all of these photos as A3. I would've perhaps liked the top right picture a little bigger, but they were taken with a higher ISO so they are quite grainy compared to the other shoots (in my defence it was my first studio shoot in a while, I was rushing and I'm not a camera wizard quite yet). Also, I didn't want the top left photo to be displayed alone but I don't think it would've worked well with the other two on it's own. 

Of all the shoots I did, I feel this one least represents the shift in gender boundaries. I mean, sure, she has short hair, but that was pretty fashionable at the time, even for women that adhered to the set gender stereotypes. This does, however, highlight the shift in what was considered femininely  attractive in mainstream culture; half a century previous women were still wearing skirts and corsets and the fact that such a 'masculine' hairstyle became such an iconic style for the time.


Edit- I removed one photo from the final layout because it wasn't as strong as the others and the space looked better with 3 photos.


The punk shoot was the only one I did outside and without being able to control the lighting as much,  I felt like these needed a bit more editing. When I first shot these, I loved them. The model was great- really relaxed and not awkward on camera at all. It was the first shoot I did so liking them gave me a little sense of relief. After editing all the rest of my photos from the studio shoots that had all used lighting purposely and thoughtfully, I really had a hard time editing these. Originally I wasn't going to do these black and white but because they all had different backgrounds - from being shot on location as opposed to a set backdrop - I didn't feel like any of them really fit together in colour. Putting them into black and white was my way of tying them together a bit more, which I think worked as a lot of the punk images I came across in my research were in black and white anyway. They all look a bit more harsh than the 1920s black and white (where a softbox was used) but in my opinion this adds to the punk theme.  The larger image will be displayed as A2 and the other 3 as A3. 

What really throws this across the gender boundary is the buzzcut. Punks were known for pretty much saying F you to every social stereotype there was, so it was pretty easy to use this style for the project. 

Tuesday, 17 May 2016

Correspondence with Sarah Waters

In my proposal, I talked about being influenced by Sarah Waters, who is my favourite author. Her books are always period; Victorian usually, though sometimes wartime/post-wartime Britain. I've emailed her in the past, just praising her books and she was very lovely. I decided that, at the beginning of my project, she would be a good person to ask for some direction on research resources. Here are some screenshots of our emails:


Now, I did email her with the full intention of buying and reading the books. Had I been a bit more organised with money, I could've bought them and spent my bed-bound bronchitis month reading. Unfortunately, I didn't and because of the time I'd lost working because of being ill, once I recovered I had neither time nor money to read them which is a shame. I'll agree with her though, the internet was a great resource!


Tuesday, 10 May 2016

4th Shoot: 1920s

This shoot was one of the ones I was more excited for. It's the only shoot I did with more than 1 model and I really wanted a strong gender-bend theme. I wanted a short-haired, masculine female model who would wear a shirt and trousers with a bow tie, and a feminine male model wearing a 20's style flapper dress. Unfortunately, I didn't have enough money to buy a 20s style dress, so I decided to dress both models in the same thing.
Makeup for the male model. I didn't create a face chart for the female as it would
only be some foundation then straightening the eyebrows and defining the jawline. 



 I'd also decided that like in my punk and 80s shoot, I wanted to use cigarettes and cigarette holders. The ones I used in the studios were fake, though I'm really happy with them and I don't think they look fake at all. I decided to use smoking because I think it's a really easy way to change the models' mannerisms and make them appear more feminine/masculine, without getting them to pose overtly different.














I had a lot of trouble with the lighting on this shoot. Both of my models turned up late on this day, meaning I had to not only rush the makeup and hair, but also rush setting up the studio. After the model's got comfortable with each other (and the camera), the poses became a lot better and came out well.

Monday, 9 May 2016

3rd shoot: 80s

My third shoot for this project was an 80s inspired shoot with a male model. I was inspired a lot by 80s stars like Bowie, Madonna and Boy George.











What I really love about this shoot is how the lighting looks. The first half of the photos as a bit too bright, but the second lot came out so well. I just used a single soft box, high up but angled down. To create more black shadows, I used 2 black card boards either side of the model to create more shadows to define the contours of his face. Luckily he was a really natural model too so I took a lot of pictures without him running out of poses or getting awkward, like in the previous shoot.


I found it so hard to choose only 4 to use, but these were the ones I ended up with:







Thursday, 5 May 2016

2nd Shoot: 60s

My second shoot of this project was a 60s based shoot. I wanted this shoot to look quite lighthearted and feminine overall but with the short hair being the focus of the shoot.








I chose a white background for the shoot and just used  softbox light with a Nikon D7000 camera. I wish I had more knowledge on lighting, I think that would've made the photos look just that little bit better. 

My model for this was pretty awkward and I think that shows on camera a lot. Luckily I managed to get a few good photos that looked more natural but overall I think most of them look pretty awkward. The foundation also looks a different colour on her face which is annoying as this only showed up on camera and I'd taken so long trying to set up the lights that I had no time to try and fix up the makeup. 

These are the unedited photos I chose to use from this shoot: